28 May 2014

In and around Queenstown

In this series:
Springfield to Bealey
Arthur's Pass to Greymouth
Canterbury
Twizel to Cromwell

After the long ride the day before, I spent the next morning recuperating in Cromwell before setting off for the last 60 or so kilometers to Queenstown. I rather wish I'd spent more time exploring Cromwell, lovely town with orchards and sun. Still, off I went to my destination, via the striking Kawarau Gorge.

Vineyards at Cromwell

Kawarau Gorge

Kawarau Gorge

Kawarau Gorge

Bridge over the Kawarau River

Lake Dunstan

Lake Dunstan

Stupidly, after my careful planning to make sure I stayed alive and warm all the way to Queenstown, I got there late the day before ANZAC weekend without making bookings in advance, so I was scrambling to find accommodations. By the time I found a bed it was way after dark, and I was just happy to stay in.

62.2km, 609m climbed

The past few days had caught up with me and I wasn't feeling up to anything exciting, so I left everything but the essentials in my trusty Carradice saddlebag and went on an easy ride exploring Q-Town's picturesque vistas.

Mouth of the Kawarau River meeting Lake Wakatipu

The Kelvin Peninsula

Frankton

The Frankton Trail

The Frankton Trail

Lake Wakatipu from the Q-Town Golf Course

28.3km, 290m climbed

The next day I was feeling a bit better, so I swapped my tourer for a 200mm monster, went up the gondola, and hit the downhill tracks.

Q-Town from up high

Glory

Killer switchbacks 

And the end of the road

The rest of my stay was dedicated to locating a suitable box (thanks, German dude at RR Sport, enjoy the ginger beer) and packing up the bike and luggage. Then it was back to Wellington, flying over the lovely rock I'd rolled over for the past ten days.

Q-Town from up way up high

The Southern Alps again

And Clifford Bay

All in all, 10 days, 1400km by bike, boat, bus, and train (not counting the plane ride back). April was my biggest month on Strava, at more than 540km and 4,840m climbed by bicycle.

Hasta la vista, South Island. I'll be back for the rest of ya.

03 May 2014

Twizel to Cromwell

In this series:
Springfield to Bealey
Arthur's Pass to Greymouth
Canterbury
Twizel to Cromwell
In and Around Queenstown

I had to scramble to make up for not reaching Omarama the day before. I knew it was a long way to go, and I hadn't been able to find anything between Omarama and Cromwell. The local i-Site confirmed it, it would have to be the long haul. After an early breakfast from the local Foursquare I set off determined.

Early start from Twizel

It was close to 5°C when I started, and I stopped soon enough to put on my winter gloves and balaclava. I had tried to anticipate the unknown, but Murphy is insidious: after maybe 10km my toes were completely numb. I had wool socks, shoes, and waterproof overshoes on, but cycling shoes have an intake channel underneath for circulation and that wasn't helping in this instance. I stopped and stuffed the channel with Lamb's Ears (a shrub with soft hairy leaves) for insulation, covered it with plastic, and taped the stuffing down. Not pretty but it definitely helped. When I got to Omarama I stopped at a shop for a pair of thick merino/possum blend socks for relief until the day warmed up.

Lamb's Ear

Good for stuffing

The way to Cromwell is through Lindis Pass, which isn't as steep or windy as Arthur's Pass, but a good long climb nonetheless. I took a short break for lunch at the summit, then took full advantage of the downhill section into the gentle hills of Central Otago. Steady spinning into the distance in good weather is a joy, and with my soundtrack (more on that later) and the memories, thoughts, and insights that naturally come up in the rhythm of cycling, it was a thoroughly enjoyable day. The sun was almost down by the time I rode past the bridge into Cromwell to complete the longest ride of the trip yet.

The Ahuriri River


The day ahead

Up Lindis Pass

Lindis summit

Down into Central Otago


The hills of Tarras


And finally Cromwell

143.3km, 899m climbed