Canterbury

In this series:
Springfield to Bealey
Arthur's Pass to Greymouth
Canterbury
Twizel to Cromwell

In and Around Queenstown

I took a rest day and got on the train back to Christchurch, going from Greymouth through the uphill tunnel at Otira and the hills of Canterbury. Wild scenery was everywhere.

Greymouth monuments (and more sandflies)

Greymouth river

Boats at Lake Brunner

The locals at Otira

The braided Broken River

I got to Christchurch late and made my way to my stop for the night, which turned out to be quite a challenge as the CBD was still full of closed roads and detours. But it's a lovely city, with wide roads and dedicated cycling lanes (though quite flat). The Chester Street backpackers is a hostel with character, run by a Scottish couple who were themselves travellers working for accommodation, and I met some nice folks with great stories.

The next day was bleak again, and I took the bus South. Lake Tekapo was the next stop, and the first tourist trap I encountered. I didn't stay long in town, and instead made my way up Mt John and to the observatories, built there reportedly because of the location's remoteness and lack of light pollution. It was a sharp climb, but it turned out to be spectacularly worth the effort - hardly anyone up there, and I got to enjoy the most amazing views yet.

Lake Tekapo

Up Mt John

Mt John

Mt John

Further South I passed Lake Pukaki, which was just lovely in the dusk light. The glacial waters are rich in minerals which give it its preternatural turquoise glow. I had stayed longer than I intended at Tekapo, and instead of making it to Omarama, I ended up spending the night in Twizel, a town seemingly built specifically to cater to tourists in camper vans.

Lake Pukaki

75.4km, 713m climbed

Alpine Crossing 2: Arthur's Pass to Greymouth

In this series:
Springfield to Bealey
Arthur's Pass to Greymouth
Canterbury
Twizel to Cromwell

In and Around Queenstown

The following day was grey and the fog was low. The next leg took me took me through Arthur's Pass to the West Coast. Arthur's Pass was a pleasant little town but the weather was heavy so I pushed on.

Foggy day at Bealey

Gold and grey

The Waimakariri bridge

Mountain stream at Arthur's Pass

Near the descent to Otira a circus of Kea were circling, and came down for a closer look when I stopped at the lookout. These guys are amazingly curious and didn't seem very concerned about me, and so I spent some time just watching them as they pecked and pulled at my bags and fittings (though I intervened when they started on my tyres).

The viaduct and a local

Curious Kea

Right before the viaduct descent, the low-hanging clouds gave in and poured their affections on me. I had to stop and put on my waterproof gloves, which was awkward timing because they weren't particularly good for working brake levers (thank goodness for the redesigned ergo Veloce levers). My brakes and will were tested down the very steep downhill, and I was soaked all the rest of the way to the coast.

The Otira Viaduct

Wet and wild

Sandfly heaven

There was a long way to go and I ran out of drinking water, but I got plenty of hydration just opening my mouth. I stopped a few times to change socks, which was how I got acquainted with sandflies. I've read that they are able to track mammals by the air we exhale, and I believe it. They are the most opportunistic pests and they are very effective at it.

By the time I got to Greymouth it was dark, so I turned in at the cheap, cold, and damp backpacker accommodations I'd booked, took out my sleeping bag, and passed out.

108.8km, 985m climbed

Alpine Crossing 1: Springfield to Bealey

In this series:
Springfield to Bealey
Arthur's Pass to Greymouth
Canterbury
Twizel to Cromwell

In and Around Queenstown

I'd started from Wellington the day before, that day being the first we'd seen any sun in a couple of weeks. As it turns out by going South I was following the path of the storm. On the ferry to Picton, we were told the storm had caused several landslips between Blenheim and Kaikoura. The tracks had been damaged and train services were not running at all. I considered making last-minute changes and making a detour via Nelson instead but it sounded like roads were dangerous all over. As it turns out, they ran a replacement bus service from Picton. With the state of the roads it took 9 hours to get to Christchurch instead of 6. There Alan of Selwyn Shuttle had waited to take me to Springfield, and Pete at the Springfield Hotel took me in at almost midnight. I was prepared for anything as the atrocious weather was beating down, but these folks were determined to make up for it with a ready smile. I am grateful.

The next day was much better, but the storm had graced the mountains with the first snow of the season. I had a sleeping bag and bivvy but I hoped to make it to Bealey and stay indoors.

Starting out at Springfield

The season's first snow

The climb starts

Lonely climb (and shedding a layer)

Lone rider in the alps

Taking a break at Lake Pearson

Finally the Waimakariri River 

At Bealey

71.7km, 1275m climbed

Next: Arthur's Pass to Greymouth